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Mexican taco stand becomes the first in the world to receive a coveted Michelin star - as chef dishes his cooking secrets

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Mexico City's Tacos El Califa de León has received a Michelin star, making it the only taco stand in the world to receive the coveted award from the French dining guide.

Not making a big fuss of the incredible honor, the tiny restaurant's main chef, Arturo Rivera Martínez, stood over his grill Wednesday searing meat for a horde of hungry customers as he's done for 20 years. 

Asked how he felt about receiving the Michelin star Rivera Martínez said 'está chido ... está padre,' meaning:'It's neat, it's cool.'

Although Michelin representatives came Wednesday to present him with his well-deserved full-sleeved white chef's jacket, he didn't put it on. Not out of disrespect, but simply because his cooking area is tiny - 10 feet by 10 feet - and extremely hot.

Diners at the stand can only order tacos, and the meat inside comes from either a cow's rib, loin or fore shank.

Newly minted Michelin-starred chef Arturo Rivera Martínez prepares an order of tacos at the Tacos El Califa de León taco stand, in Mexico City, Wednesday, May 15, 2024

Newly minted Michelin-starred chef Arturo Rivera Martínez prepares an order of tacos at the Tacos El Califa de León taco stand, in Mexico City, Wednesday, May 15, 2024

'The secret is the simplicity of our taco. It has only a tortilla, red or green sauce, and that's it. That, and the quality of the meat,' said Rivera Martínez. 

Alberto Muñoz, a customer for eight years, said much the same, hyping up the quality of the meat the taco stand uses.

Unsurprisingly, the owner Mario Hernández Alonso won't reveal where he buys his meat from.

'I have never been disappointed. And now I'll recommend it with even more reason, now that it has a star,' Muñoz said.

Muñoz's son, Alan, who was waiting for a beef taco alongside his father said that this was 'a historic day for Mexican cuisine, and we're witnesses to it.'

An overhead view of the tiny taco stand. Customers line the side wall as they put salsa on their tacos, while the Michelin star chef continues serving up food

An overhead view of the tiny taco stand. Customers line the side wall as they put salsa on their tacos, while the Michelin star chef continues serving up food

And unlike other Michelin star chefs who will sometimes provide apt wine pairings for their delectable dishes, Rivera Martínez said 'a Coke' goes best with his tacos.

El Califa de León is the only taco stand among the 16 restaurants in Mexico given one star, as well as two eateries that got two stars. Most of them are fine dining restaurants serving expensive seafood.

The prices at the taco stand, however, are a lot more affordable with a huge taco costing nearly $5. Customers say the tacos there are the best, if not the cheapest, in the city.

El Califa de León has been around since 1968 and has been doing the same things that's made it so successful since the beginning.

Thousands of times a day, Rivera Martínez grabs a fresh, thinly sliced fillet of beef from a stack and slaps it on the 680 degree steel grill. 

He then dashes a pinch of salt over the meat and squeezes half a lime on top before grabbing a soft piece of freshly rolled tortilla dough to heat it up on the grill.

Less than a minute later - he didn't share exactly how long because 'that's a secret' - he flips the beef, flips the tortilla and assembles it on the plate for the waiting customer.

Mario Hernández Alonso, Rivera Martínez's dad, the current owner of Tacos El Califa de León, inherited the business from his father. He won't reveal where he buys his meat, which customers rave about

Mario Hernández Alonso, Rivera Martínez's dad, the current owner of Tacos El Califa de León, inherited the business from his father. He won't reveal where he buys his meat, which customers rave about

A customer flashes a thumbs up while eating a taco straight from Rivera Martínez's grill. The taco stand is the first ever to receive a Michelin star from the French dining guide

A customer flashes a thumbs up while eating a taco straight from Rivera Martínez's grill. The taco stand is the first ever to receive a Michelin star from the French dining guide

This tried and true process that has won El Califa de León a Michelin star is a symbol of how their resistance to change has been beneficial. 

And going forward, Hernández Alonso said he's going to keep doing what works.

A potential way to expand the stand came after the coronavirus pandemic, since legislators allowed Mexico City restaurants to open street-side canopied seating areas.

But El Califa de León doesn't even have a sidewalk for customers to eat on because of all the street vendors, so customers now stand cheek-to jowl among display stands and plastic mannequins. 

Asked if he would like them to make room for a street-side seating area, Hernández Alonso expressed an 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' attitude. 

'As the saying goes, why fix or change something that's alright? You shouldn't fix anything,' he said, motioning to the street vendors. 'It's the way God ordered things, and you have to deal with it.' 

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