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Finding peace in Greece: Halkidiki is known for its lively bars and sprawling resorts. But head to a nearby peninsula for unspoiled villages, cobalt seas - and King Charles's spiritual retreat
It takes three loops down the same winding lane, as well as some choice words with the satnav, before we finally spot the discreet sign for our hotel.
Easing the hire car down another twisting path, it suddenly – thrillingly – reveals itself in a scattering of boxy timber buildings which seem to cleave into the grassy hillside and down to the sea.
Save the slight detour, it has taken only 90 minutes to reach this part of Halkidiki after flying into Thessaloniki, Greece’s second-largest city.
Yet in that time we have driven through a vast landscape of silvery olive groves and huge open spaces which, were it not for the soaring temperature, could fool the eye into thinking we’re actually in the Lake District.
Strange, really, since Halkidiki, a large peninsula in northern Greece, is a name often associated with lively nightlife, bustling taverns and busy beaches. Yet it is actually divided into three smaller peninsulas which jut out like a trio of gnarled fingers into the Aegean.
Angela Epstein explores Ammouliani island (pictured), which is located in the bay of Halkidiki's Athos peninsula
And it is only the first finger – known as Cassandra – which has become a hub for mass tourism and larger sprawling resorts.
Press on to our destination on the third finger – known as the Athos peninsula – and you’ll find an altogether different place.
Miles of countryside speckled with fishing villages, chestnut forests and hemmed by impossibly translucent blue waters which are said to be the clearest in Greece.
Athos is crowned by Mount Athos and a community of 24 monasteries, reveals Angela
Above, Vatopedi monastery, which King Charles has visited on many occasions
All of which is crowned by Mount Athos and a community of about 24 monasteries.
It’s a place King Charles has visited on many occasions and is said to have sought spiritual guidance from his longtime friend, the Abbot of the Greek Orthodox Vatopedi monastery, following his cancer diagnosis.
Our hotel, the Avaton, perfectly suits the mood of this tranquil peninsula. A discreetly luxurious collection of suites, villas and rooms set in lush gardens. There’s no communal pool – instead many rooms have private pools with in-built sunbeds.
Communality takes place on the Avaton’s sheltered beach, where glassy waters seem to be untroubled by waves. Breakfast is hosted under gauzy gazebos, with the option of dinner served on the beach itself.
If you want to see Mount Athos, Angel recommends taking a coastal cruise from the town of Ouranoupolis (pictured)
Athos is the so-called 'third finger' of Halkidiki
Given the topography, if you want to explore this part of Halkidiki then planning is vital – it can get very hot. The joy is that in this time zone it stays light until around 8.45pm, so there’s no need to bust a gut under an unforgiving Hellenic sun. The hotel can arrange bikes, including electric ones, so one day, around 6pm, when the sun begins to lose some power, we crest the hills before dropping into the small seaside village of Nea Roda, where the houses are draped with bougainvilleas and the taverns serve freshly caught fish.
On another day we hire a motorboat to visit a trio of small islands. Ammouliani, the largest, is the only permanently occupied of the three – and then with only 600 residents, though still with its share of tavernas and gift shops. In contrast, neighbouring Goat Island is just a rocky outcrop where my husband Martin indulges his adventurer gene, dropping anchor and swimming ashore only to be greeted by a cluster of – yes – goats on the rough sand. Their inscrutable gaze makes it unclear whether we are welcome or not.
If you want to see Mount Athos, a variety of coastal cruises are available from the small town of Ouranoupolis only a ten-minute drive away from our hotel.
Feminists look away now – women have been forbidden on the holy mountain for about 1,000 years but you’ll get a good view from the boat.
Angela stays at Avaton, above, which 'perfectly suits the mood of this tranquil peninsula'
Stagira is the birthplace of Aristotle. Above is a statue of the philosopher in the ancient city, with its ruins 'scattered over a hilltop overlooking the Gulf'
If you’re a lover of hiking, this part of hidden Halkidiki offers numerous trails and paths. Thanks again to the long days of its high season we set out to explore on foot around 6pm, ensuring we have a clear guide on Google Maps, hats, water and UV parasol. On another day we take a 45-minute drive to ancient Stagira, the birthplace of Aristotle, where ruins of the original city are scattered over a hilltop overlooking the Gulf.
Another 30 minutes on will take you to Aristotle Park, where a series of outdoor interactive instruments, such as optical discs, a water turbine, a telescope and sounding bar showcase the ancient philosopher’s curriculum for his students (not least Alexander the Great).
After days of exploration it’s a pleasure to retreat to our hotel and savour the tranquillity.
With a warm, soft wind ruffling our clothes, as we eat homegrown salads that are crispy and colourful, the soul of hidden Halkidiki feels tangible.
As for partygoers and lovers of nightlife, the finger points in a different direction.