I'm a top dermatologist - these are the anti-ageing products that really work PLUS the skincare routine for over 50s that actually makes a difference

With a dizzying array of 'wonder' creams on offer, all promising eternal youth, buying skincare can seem an impossible task. So how can we know what actually works when it comes to anti-ageing? As a consultant dermatologist that's a question I am asked all the time. 

I tell my patients that, while a great skincare routine doesn't need to be expensive or complicated, it does need to be intelligently crafted, suitable for your individual skin type and consistently performed. It should also be streamlined, using only a small number of products – more is not more when it comes to optimal skin health and tackling the signs of ageing. 

Top dermatologist Dr Emma Wedgworth is often asked by patients: 'What actually works when it comes to anti-ageing?'

So what would the ideal anti-ageing skincare routine look like? And which products are effective? Here's my expert guide...

Your morning routine

Step 1: Cleanser

Getting this right is critical – patients of mine who use the wrong cleanser for their skin type often have issues such as irritation or blocked pores. I favour non-foaming gel and cream cleansers because they are gentle.

Step 2: Vitamin C serum

Antioxidants are compounds that fight off free radicals, which are destructive, ageing molecules set off by UV light, pollution and other environmental factors. Vitamin C is the best researched topical antioxidant and l-ascorbic acid is the type of vitamin C with the most evidence, so that's what you're looking for in your serum. It can help reduce pigmentation and is essential for healthy collagen production. 

Use it all over the face and neck, including under the eyes, straight after cleansing in the morning.

Step 3: Azelaic acid serum

A superstar ingredient, azelaic acid is anti-inflammatory with anti-blemish, anti-redness and anti-pigmentation properties: great to clarify, brighten and even out pigmentation. Most skin types can use it and it works well in the morning, after vitamin C. Alternatively, you can use it alongside a retinoid in the evening (avoiding the eye area).

Step 4: Moisturiser

Optimum hydration is essential for staving off premature ageing. A good moisturiser nourishes and protects the skin barrier which becomes more delicate with age. Moisturiser ingredients that help boost components of your protective skin barrier are best: Look for niacinamide, ceramides and glycerine. Moisturiser also helps increase tolerance of powerful wrinkle-fighting actives like retinoids.

Step 5: Sunscreen

There is no anti-ageing without sunscreen. UV exposure is responsible for the majority of non-genetic ageing of the skin, so wrinkle-fighting ingredients are pointless without all-year-round UV protection. Daily sunscreens are no longer the thick, oily products they used to be; today they offer elegant textures for every skin type and come with added anti-ageing ingredients. Many function as good moisturisers as well, so you can use them instead of your daytime moisturiser if you want.

Your bedtime routine

Step 1: Cleanser

Your cleanser is even more important at night than in the morning as it will remove not only makeup and dirt, but ageing pollution particles too.

Step 2: Peptide serum

Yes, you do need a third serum. Peptides are 'signalling' molecules that help skin to function in a more efficient way when repairing wrinkles, clearing up pigmentation, fighting irritation, and so forth. Their formulation and size determine how well they are absorbed and function. They're very well tolerated, so suitable for even the most sensitive skins. They can be used instead of, or alongside, a retinoid.

Step 3: A Retinoid

A dermatologists' favourite, 'retinoids' is the umbrella term for a group of creams related to vitamin A. Retinoids help to increase the amount and quality of collagen and improve fine lines. They speed up cell renewal to improve texture for smoother skin, soften pigmentation and fight blemishes. The different molecules (retinol, retinaldehyde and granactive retinoid) all have pros and cons, but are all effective. Retinoids can irritate your skin, but if introduced slowly, and at the appropriate strength, most people can incorporate them successfully into their routine.

Step 4: Moisturiser

A moisturiser appropriate for your skin type can be used day and night; there's no need for a separate night cream.

The top 11 anti-ageing products I recommend you use

Dr Sam's Flawless Cleanser suits all skin types

Dr Sam's Flawless Cleanser, £19 (drsambunting.com)

A gentle product that I really rate, this suits all skin types.

Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, £165 (skinceuticals.co.uk)

This is the gold standard of vitamin C serums, featuring 15 per cent l-ascorbic acid, vitamin E and ferulic acid. Formulated to optimise the stability of the vitamin C, it's one of the best-studied vitamin C products on the market.

Paula's Choice 10 per cent Azelaic Acid Booster, £34.85 (paulaschoice.co.uk)

Apart from soothing, brightening and refining azelaic acid, this also contains salicylic acid to keep blemish-prone skin clear.

Cerave PM Lotion Ultra Lightweight, £11.75 (amazon.co.uk)

A light moisturiser that's great for oilier skins (which need hydration as much as dry skins do), featuring niacinamide which helps fortify the barrier and brighten skin, and functions as a protective antioxidant.

Murad City Skin Age Defence SPF50, £69 (cultbeauty.co.uk)

A broad-spectrum mineral sunscreen (great for sensitive skin) spiked with multiple ingredients to protect against ageing pollution.

Heliocare Water Gel SPF50 Beige/Bronze, £32.99 (heliocare.co.uk)

Lightweight, broad-spectrum and rich in age-busting antioxidants. Has a tinted moisturiser-like finish – use your sunscreen as your make-up and not vice versa!

No7 Future Renew Damage Reversal Serum, from Boots, has Dr Wedgworth's approval

No7 Future Renew Damage Reversal Serum, £34.95 (boots.com)

This has a proprietary peptide complex clinically proven to penetrate the skin and visibly repair damage by boosting skin's main proteins collagen and elastin.

Medik8 Crystal Retinal comes in five different strengths

Medik8 Crystal Retinal, from £49 (cultbeauty.co.uk)

This serum comes in five different strengths, so you can step it up as you build your tolerance to the powerful retinoid retinaldehyde.

The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane, £15.90 (theordinary.com)

Granactive retinoid is better-tolerated than retinol but this the higher strength, so you might need to start with the lower 2% one and build up slowly.

Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2

Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2, £150 (skinceuticals.co.uk)

A great, rich cream for drier skins that contains the optimum ratio of ceramides, lipids and cholesterol to help restore the all-important, plump skin-preserving skin barrier.

Naturium Multipeptide Eye Cream, £18 (spacenk.com)

Eye creams are not essential, but peptides are a good choice in a targeted eye product because this sensitive area tolerates them well. This light cream contains brightening, plumping and line-relaxing peptides.

• As told to Ingeborg van Lotringen