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Istanbul for under £100 a night: Straddling two continents, this dazzling city offers historical wonders and bargain bites
Colossal and confusing in equal measure, Istanbul is as captivating these days as it was under Emperor Constantine and in its subsequent Ottoman heyday.
For the savvy traveller, the city’s allure is strong with the pound riding high against the Turkish lira: 25 per cent up on a year ago. A long weekend by the Bosphorus makes for a cultural treat – and a bargain.
Where to stay
Sokullu Pasa
Tucked away down a cobbled alleyway in the Sultanahmet district, just a five-minute walk from the Hippodrome, Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, this gorgeous old townhouse offers superb value for money with rooms bedecked with flowing kaftans, wrought-iron lampshades and a colossal breakfast buffet that can be taken in the small garden shaded by lemon trees. Doubles from £65 B&B (sokullupasahotel.com).
Rob Crossan shares his travel guide to Istanbul for under £100 a night - he explores the unique city in Turkey that straddles both Europe and Asia
Empress Zoe
The ‘small double’ rooms are very small indeed, though adorned with beautifully bright textiles and prints. Zoe (named after a bygone regent) consists of two former townhouses and part of a hamam dating from the 15th century. The palm tree and yucca-smothered garden is a peaceful spot for breakfast and most of the major sights of Sultanahmet are within 20 minutes walk. Doubles from £78 B&B (emzoe.com).
Hotel Niles
From the Marmora marble to the Iznik tiles to the leafy roof garden, this is a class act with a Bosphorus meets Bordeaux vibe. The breakfasts are a superbly generous spread of yoghurts, cheeses and borek [filled pastries] and there’s even free cake in the lobby during the afternoon. Doubles from £97 B&B (hotelniles.com).
Ibrahim Pasha
Hotel Ibrahim Pasha is surrounded by the city's major sights, and takes in 'both sides of the Bosphorus and the Hagia Sophia (above)', says Rob
The view from the roof terrace of this small hotel, a few minutes walk from Topkapi Palace and the Turkish And Islamic Arts Museum, is a cracker, taking in both sides of the Bosphorus and the Hagia Sophia. Head inside after dusk and there’s a sitting room bulging with books on the city collected by the owner. Rooms are sleek affairs bedecked with Venetian blinds made from dark woods and some well-chosen Turkish rugs. Doubles from £86 B&B (ibrahimpasha.com).
What to see and do
Ferry across the Bosphorus
Take a ferry from the Eminonu docks on the European side of the Bosphorus, to the Uskudar docks on the Asian side. It’s handy for getting about but also a great way to see the city from the water, especially at sunset. Fares are from 40p. See ‘How to use Istanbul’s ferries’ at istanbulvacationtips.com.
Cinili Hamam
Hamam experiences on the western side of Istanbul tend to be overpriced, mostly catering to visitors.
For a true taste of how the locals indulge in this age-old pastime, head to the Asian shoreline and the humble, terracotta-hued Cinili Hamam. Dating from 1640, there are separate entrances for men and women, where towels are provided. Choose between ‘self-service’ or to be washed by an attendant, armed with a mitt that peels the skin before you lie on the vast marble slabs in the ‘hararet’ steam room (cinilihamam.com, £15).
Blue Mosque
Seen here, the Blue Mosque is 'beautiful as an example of Ottoman imperial architecture at its most grandiose', says Rob
As of January, Hagia Sophia mosque has a whopping £22 entrance fee for all foreign, non-Muslim visitors. Luckily, the nearby Blue Mosque is still free and every bit as beautiful as an example of Ottoman imperial architecture at its most grandiose.
Built on the orders of Sultan Ahmed I between 1609 and 1617, it’s the glittering array of Isnik tiles inside that gives the mosque its famous moniker (Binbirdirek, At Meydanı Cd, No 10, free entry).
Yerebatan Basilica Cistern
Basilica Cistern (above) featured in the James Bond film From Russia with Love - now visitors can explore it using walkways that traverse the 336 columns
When Sean Connery visited in From Russia With Love, Emperor Constantine’s vast underwater storage facility could only be rowed through. Now there are walkways that traverse the 336 columns, bathed in gently shifting coloured lights (yerebatan.com/en, £15).
Where to eat
Kanaat
The best value dining in Istanbul is at esnaf lokantasi, essentially workers’ canteens serving homely dishes at bargain prices.
There’s no better example than Kanaat, on the Asian shoreline. Moussakas, lamb in bechamel sauce, liver kebabs and stuffed aubergine dishes all come with vast baskets of bread for mopping up the sauces (mains around £6, kanaatlokantasi.com.tr).
Durumcu Mehmet
Searching for the best kebab in Istanbul is a lifelong odyssey for some, but you’ll struggle to find better than the lamb, liver or chicken kebabs served at this tiny joint in the Grand Bazaar.
Head to Durumcu Mehmet in the Grand Bazaar, pictured, for the 'best kebab in Istanbul'
'Searching for the best kebab in Istanbul is a lifelong odyssey for some,' says Rob. Above, a food vendor in Eminonu, Istanbul
Take a seat on the tiny stools among the locals, don’t be afraid to shout to get served and feast on the bulging wrapped delights before delving back into the maze of the bazaar (mains from £3.50, Mollafenari, Kiliccilar Sk. No 35).
Cafe Smyrna
On the main drag in the bohemian Beyoglu area, Smyrna beguiles with its outdoor tables populated by musicians and actors sipping Efes beer amid the foliage and candles.
Salads, pastas and grilled meats dominate the reasonably-priced menu and you’re all but guaranteed to be joined by one of the neighbourhood cats while you dine and drink (mains from £9, Akarsu Yakusa, No 29).
How to get there
BA Holidays (ba.com) offers two nights in the Sokullu Pasa hotel from £196pp including return flights from Heathrow.
BA has a dedicated accessibility team; see its ‘What assistance is available?’ page. Wizz Air has return flights from £83 (wizzair.com).